My workshop smells of degreaser and coffee. Four bikes up on the stands, chains out and going through the
ultrasonic cleaner, and a box of brake pads I ordered back in July that I finally got round to opening this
week.
All of it is for September, which is our busiest month and the one I'd keep if I could only have one. The
summer crowds have gone home, the mornings start cold enough for arm warmers while the afternoons still get
warm, and every village we ride through is in the middle of harvest, busy with whatever is being brought in
that week.
Cheers from the saddle,
Peter Illés
Founder & Guide · Wiredonkey Cycling Tours
The plants come off the wires and go straight onto the trailer.
You see the hop yards from a long way off. Around Laslea they stand in rows of poles with the wires
strung six metres up, and the plants climb the whole way to the top.
Late August into September is when they come down. It is slow, sociable work, done by the whole village: the plants cut
at the base, pulled off the wires and loaded onto tractor trailers to be taken away. Some of what they
pick goes to the small brewers in Sibiu and Brașov, some into bread, and some to the weavers, who use it
to dye their wool.
This is why I keep the route on the valley road instead of the main one. In a car you pass a hop yard in
twenty seconds and never learn what is going on inside it. On a bike you can stop, and if you ask,
somebody will explain what they are doing.
Saxon Heritage Trail: seven days among the fortified churches of Transylvania
You ride out of the Olt valley on the first morning, and by the second afternoon you are through the hop
valleys and into the fortified villages: Alma Vii, Biertan, Mălâncrav and Viscri, on roads where you meet
more tractors and horse carts than cars.
Days are unhurried: around 60 kilometres and 350 metres of climbing, which leaves the afternoons free for
the things that are actually the point. A church key borrowed from a neighbour. A long lunch that was
meant to be twenty minutes. A night at the Apafi Manor in Mălâncrav, which is as close to sleeping inside
the history as it gets.
One moment from the route
The last day is the one I look forward to. Riding towards Bran, a wall of limestone comes up on your right
and stays there most of the afternoon: Piatra Craiului, the King's Rock, a single ridge about 25
kilometres long that tops out above 2,200 metres. Sheep grazing the fields, and the whole ridge behind them.
Distance
60 km per day · ~350 m
Where you sleep
Saxon guesthouses · one night at Apafi Manor
Best meal
Village lunch in Biertan, straight off the harvest
Cultural highlight
Painted ceiling, Mălâncrav church
Support
Van always with you
E-bike option
Yes, same route
"Peter's local and historical knowledge provided for an incredible in-depth experience we could never
come close to without him guiding us. The home stays were super cozy and welcoming while the local
gastro points were delicious."
— Jake W. · Saxon Heritage Trail, April 2026
The Wiredonkey difference
Locally sourced, home-cooked meals
Cooked by the people who host you, from what the village brought in that week. In September that
means plums, peppers and whatever came out of the garden that morning.
Support van always with you
Bags, spare wheels, water, snacks, and a seat if the day turns out longer than you wanted. Nobody
gets left on a hill.
We are booking for next season now. If you have a week in mind, hit reply and tell me. I read every message myself.
— Peter
We post moments from our tours, gravel-road clips, and what's on the table at the guesthouse.
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